Thursday, March 25, 2010

March 25


Last weekend I hung out with mi familia, and I went to an Ecuadorian concert with mis padres.  It was near the teleférico in this large building, with thousands of middle-aged Ecuadorians.  It was a promotional concert run by the company that gave my host dad a loan.  It was free, but it was so obviously promotional, it was annoying.  We clapped for the businessmen of the company and listened for our numbers to be called to win a toaster or insurance.  The concert included an Elvis Presley impersonator, a popular Ecuadorian singer, and an Ecuadorian band, but the other stuff in between was a bummer.  We stayed until 1 am, and I was almost falling asleep on the shoulder de mi mamá.  We danced a little and drank some free rum, but I kept laughing to myself that I was sitting between my host parents amongst a thousand forty year old Ecuadorians at some concert put on by an insurance/ loan company. 
Mi mamá, mi hermana y yo en el estadio

 Innovative


I played a little basketball and soccer with my family Saturday, and stayed in the rest of the weekend due to stomach problems.  For about a month now, my stomach has not been quite right.  The annoying part is I don’t know the cause.  I have never had stomachaches unless I had the flu back in the U.S., and here it’s every other day.  It’s not bad enough to see a doctor, but it’s uncomfortable.  It seems my stomach does not like Ecuadorian food or the bacteria on it.  What I’m looking forward to most when I get back to the U.S. is a healthy stomach.  Hopefully before then my stomach will adjust.    

My friends and I finally got our Peru plans straightened out, and we are all flying instead of taking a 24-hour bus (thank goodness).  We’ll fly from Quito into Lima on Wed the 31st, then Cusco, back to Lima, to Guayaquil, and a $6 bus from Guayaquil to Quito before classes start on the 12th of April.  I’m excited to see another Latin American country and of course, Machu Pichhu.  Guayaquil should be interesting too, because then I will have stayed in the three largest cities in Ecuador.  (Haven’t done that in the U.S. yet). 

Jeremy and I are also arranging our plans as well.  He will arrive the last day of final exams week, May 14th.  We booked a cruise on a small motor-sailor yacht in the Galapagos. We’ll be in Quito for two days, go on our cruise for five, fly to Guayaquil, take a bus to the beach (probably Montañita, which is known for its young crowd and excellent surf), and bus to a touristy town called Baños, with outdoor adventures (horsebackriding, rafting, canyoning, biking) and hot springs.  Then we’ll stay with mi familia for a couple days, and then fly back to the states.  I almost feel guilty at how amazing this sounds. 

Mi familia y los vecinos (the neighbors) have started a new exercise routine.  Three times a week we go jogging at the stadium, run up the steps, do jumping jacks, and crunches.  We hopped the fence the first time to the nice soccer field, with the best césped (grass) in Lumbisí.  The weather is perfect for exercising at night.  Lying on the crisp grass gazing at the stars as I do crunches while laughing with mi familia is wonderful.  Two dogs, little kids, and four women (one of them blonde) running around must have been quite a sight. La hermana de mi papá is on a soccer team and is the one leading our “exercise group.”  She’s so unlike most twenty somethings in Lumbisí because she isn’t married with two kids.  She likes to go salsa dancing, play basketball and soccer.  She laughs easily and has a mind of her own.  She didn’t go to college, and she works at a company in Quito. 

Mi mamá told me how she and mi papá met.  Mi mamá lived in Ibarra, where mi papá sold miscellaneous household items.  She was only 18 and he was 26 (if I remember correctly) when they married.  She moved in with him and his grandparents in Lumbisí while they built their house (a process of 5 years because they had little money).  After a year of marriage they had their first child.  She told me how lonely she felt without her mom and her brothers and sisters, especially after she had her first baby.  I cannot imagine that instead of going to college at 18, getting married and having a baby.  However, 18 isn’t all that young to get married in Ecuador, especially for people of low SES.  Mi mamá told me she knows a lot of teenagers with babies, probably because Ecuador has one of the highest teen pregnancy rates in Latin America.         

I’ve been thinking how much I am going to miss my host family after I leave.  I’ve heard international students talk about how they feel like they’re just renting a room with their host family.  I describe my experience with a sense of pride:  “Oh, you know, yesterday I helped my host mom feed the chanchos, the week before we picked beans from their farm and then ate them for dinner, I played basketball and soccer at the public courts with my family and the people of Lumbisí, I made ice cream and baked a cake with my host mom, we have a little cute kitten, I went exercising last night with my family and the neighbors, I walk to the next house over to buy candy at my grandma’s store, I have a host mom who makes sure I never go hungry for a second, I went to a concert with my host parents…”

All students I’ve met except for the students in my program live in Quito, which is a slightly homogenous experience, so whenever I tell students where I live they’re either surprised or jealous.  Most families with host students are upper class in Quito and many families have maids that cook and clean, while my family owns pigs.  I’m not overly fond of the traffic, noise, and pollution of Quito either, and a gated neighborhood in Cumbayá sounds like a bore, so I’ll happily take the stray dogs and cornfields. 

Monday, March 15, 2010

March 15

I went out again with the group with my Ecuadorian quasi-friends last week to a party at this guy’s apartment.  Everyone seemed happy I was there and I was the only international student.  One guy stood on top of the coffee table reciting poetry by heart.  Some of the people reminded me of my friends back home.  One girl is president of the Human Rights Club on campus.  Another guy had a stencil art book and a book of famous quotations about peace on his desk of his apartment.  His bookshelves were full intelligent books in English.  I loved speaking and hearing only Spanish with people my age and attempting to dance salsa (three guys were fighting to dance with me), but I was being uncomfortably hit on by one of the guys in the group the entire night.  He kept forcibly pushing my face toward his so he could kiss me even though I repeatedly told him no in every form I knew how, but everyone was drinking but me so I couldn’t really get anyone to tell him to stop.  All I wanted was to have fun and be accepted by the group so I didn’t really cause a fuss about it, but when thinking about it on the drive home I felt angry and upset.    
I wish guys would leave me alone in this country. Machismo is alive and well, and because of my estadounidense appearance, it’s hard for me to avoid it.  International girls at the school also have a reputation for being easy, so that doesn’t help either.  Another annoying part was that a few people from the group got sick from drinking, which reminded me of how much I hate my age group when it comes to alcohol.  I don’t understand how people get sick on a regular basis from alcohol and everyone thinks it’s normal.  The Ecuadorians who have lived on college campuses say that Ecuadorians drink way more than people from the U.S., which I’m not sure is true for every college campus because U of I has a huge drinking problem, so I hope Ecuadorians aren’t worse.     

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

March 2


Last week, I showed up at a Campus Life event at my school.  The purpose of the events is to integrate Ecuadorian students and extranjeros.  I showed up for the last five minutes of some band playing and I was invited to go drinking afterwards.  I happened to be the only foreign student there, and I was elated at how easy it was to hang out with some Ecuadorians without extranjeros.  At the first bar, a drunk guy I never saw before kept telling me how he loved me, how beautiful my eyes were, etc.  He kept asking, “Do you trust me?” over and over.  It was uncomfortable, but soon my gang said we all had to leave.  They left because they saw how uncomfortable I was, for which I was grateful.  One of the guys said he kept leaning forward towards me as I was leaning back away from him.  He said he was worried I’d lean back too far and finally hit the wall. 

The group of eight or so people I was with all spoke nearly fluent or fluent English, but they spoke Spanish together.  It was difficult to understand the jokes and the topics they were talking about, but it felt good to finally be the only gringa.  If I’m with Ecuadorians from school, it’s usually with my U.S. friends too, so we usually speak in English.  However, I still ended up talking a lot with a guy in English, who said it was actually easier for him to talk in English because he had gone to U.S. schools all his life, although his parents are Ecuadorian.  He’s gay and it was interesting to hear his perspective of what it’s like in Ecuador (not good).  He also lived in different parts of Europe and he could compare his experiences.  Later a girl drove me home, which was nice of her.  Everyone was so welcoming that I was sad that I’d have to wait two weeks to hang out with them again because the Campus Life events are every other week. 

The next night I went out to La Mariscal with mi tía (aunt), primo, y otro chico.  We went to this discoteca, but I’ve been having stomach problems so drinking and dancing wasn’t too fun.  Eventually we left around 2 am and el celular de mi tía was robbed.  Some "negros" (black people, or Afroecuadorians as they were described) just pulled the cell phone out from my friend’s pocket.  He was carrying it for mi tía, and it was his third time being robbed of a cell phone.  He had a bunch of cash in his pocket that fortunately wasn’t robbed though. 

This past weekend I climbed la montaña Rumiñaui con mi clase de Andinismo.  It was grueling, but mesmerizing.  Sleeping did not go well because I couldn’t get my feet warm no matter how many layers I put on at various intervals during the night.  Our real climb was the second day, and I was the only one not to finish the climb.  We had just made it up the black sandy mountain and then we needed to climb up the vertical rocky part with our harnesses and ropes, which did not sound appealing as I was trying to catch my breath and sweating even though it was forty degrees.  I would have loved to do it another time, but I didn’t want to be the one who slowed everyone down.  Disappointed, but thankful for the respite, I napped and took photos while everyone climbed for an hour.


The climb down was exhilarating.  Since the mountain was sandy, I hopped and ran down the entire mountain.  Our hike was accompanied by the aroma of mint, due to the wild mint plants growing in the mountains.  The trip was wonderful.  I just wish I were more in shape.  My host dad says he’s going to run twice a week at 5:30 am and he wants me to accompany him.  I told him “voy a ver” (I’m going to see)…maybe if he decides on a later time. 

Tonight I hung out a bit with Kaye and Hannah and heard about the new gossip about people in our program.  Later mi papá told me that although I’m pretty, I’m not photogenic.  He asked me why that is as he tried to take pictures of me.  This is on top of a few days ago when he asked, “What’s that?” while laughing and pointing to a pimple on my forehead.  Mi papá doesn’t help my confidence much.  However, he helped me on my ensayo (essay) de la película, Maria Llena Eres de Gracia, so he’s not all bad.  The movie is about a pregnant girl from Columbia who becomes a drug mule and smuggles drugs into the U.S.  Mis padres tonight were telling me how much my Spanish has improved, which made me feel good.  I’m so used to getting a grade or some kind of tangible way of telling how good I am at something.  In Spanish class, I got all A’s, but there’s no grade after dinner table conversation.  I wish I could have taken a test on day one and one now so I can see my improvement.  Sometimes I feel great about my Spanish, and other times I feel that it is painfully inadequate.  It all depends on the situation, noise level, and patience the speaker has.  It’s much easier if the speaker is talking to me because he or she usually slows down and gets clues from my face if I don’t understand something. 

Language learning is not easy.  I’m afraid that at the end of five months I’m still going to be in limbo—not a beginner but not fluent.  I figured that five months would be enough for fluency, being able to talk with anyone about anything in any situation.  I’m definitely not close yet.  I can usually express anything I want, albeit in a grammatically incorrect or convoluted way, and when it’s noisy I can’t understand much.  I don’t know how much time it will take until I can call myself fluent.  I don’t want to leave Ecuador at an intermediate level…I want to be able to read Spanish language books at the same level as English language books I read and enjoy Spanish language movies like I enjoy English language ones.  I want to be confident speaking about anything in Spanish, which may take more time than I thought. 

Note: Comments are appreciated!